


We woke to a rainbow outside our hotel window, which seemed a good omen. Although we had a mix of rain and sun that day, it was an improvement on the previous two days. Plus, we were on dry, level ground! The hotel clerk recommended we take the bus down the coast from Kinsarvik to Lofthus, as the road was too narrow to walk alongside. So we waited around for a few hours until the bus came, exploring the historic stone church and enjoying the view across the harbour. Lofthus was a very pretty village, notable especially for its old houses with roofs of huge slate tiles, or covered in grass sod (we even saw garden sheds and bus stops with sod roofs). We dropped off our backpacks at the hostel (which seemed to be a school outside of the summer season; our room was clean, modern and spacious), and enjoyed a leisurely hike along the 'fruit trail' to see the local river which came tumbling down over the fjord's cliff edge in two impressive waterfalls. Lofthus is famous for its fruit orchards: plums, grapes, apples (the summers are short but the days are long, which makes for high sugar levels). Dinner that night at the nearby guesthouse was a huge shoulder of lamb, with lamb sausages (as if the shoulder wasn't enough meat for a family), mashed swedes and a bottle of local cider.
Photos: The day opens with a rainbow; Kinsarvik's harbour; Mark harvests a wild strawberry

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